Experience The Green Turtle Cay Club
By David J Cote - for "What's On Bahamas"
Published: 12/6/2000

We had been courting the idea of visiting the Green Turtle Club on that beautiful Northern Abaco cay for quite some time when we received the invitation, at last to come. In anticipation of a wonderful overnight adventure, we drove to Treasure Cay and embarked on the ferry amidst the rowdy party atmosphere of the 2000 All­Abaco Regatta, and set sail in a Bolo Ferry for the shores of White Sound Harbour.

As the ferry pulled up to the landing, we could see a young lady waiting on the dock, but really did not expect that any of the Club's busy staff would be able to meet us. However, Jennifer Sawyer, the Receptionist was there, all smiles and welcomed us warmly to the resort. We were taken to register and were invited to consider our choices for dinner later that evening. The Reception area is part of the Gift Shoppe and my wife could not resist looking at the resort wear by Cross Creek, swimwear, jewelry, scarves and handbags in catchy colours and textures, silk shells and tunics by Lisbeth and Bahamian CDs for those who wish to party at home.

The discrete sign, which reminded guests that the Resort has a dress code in the dining rooms ­ no swimwear, jog wear or t-shirts, impressed my wife Anna. Hats are to be removed and shorts may be worn as long as they are tailored (no cut­offs). Shirts with collars and the style known popularly as "casual chic" are encouraged for male and female guests. We had not seen such a notice in any but the top­drawer establishments for a long time. We realized then, that we were about to experience a unique resort atmosphere.

Jennifer escorted us back outside, past a large deck dotted with large and exuberant trees, through the Club's newest addition ­ a screened dining area and out the other side through a landscaped garden and up to the rooms. Ours ­ #7, was one of three in a building set aside from the Club's social rooms. This building, painted a sunshine yellow accented with white, had a semi­wraparound deck overlooking part of White Sound Harbour. There was patio furniture comfortably invoking the desire to lounge awhile. Jennifer invited us inside and smiled as our delight showed plainly on our faces. The air­conditioned and spacious rooms in this part of the Resort were initially designed by Tracy Charlesworth Nawn, a daughter of the Club's owners and they reflect her exquisite taste and attention to detail. #7 is dominated by a large and comfortable four­poster bed in the Queen Anne design. The pillow shams and coverlet are of blue floral chintz and the matching slate­blue walls and the curtains across the window and sliding door carried the same pattern. There was a desk and chair against a wall (and I could not stir the will to write anything with the view of the harbour right in front of me).

The lamps appeared to be etched in the cloisonné style, the sitting­chairs of rattan and the dressing table and nightstands of mahogany and there was a combination VCR/TV console (maybe for those too ill or well­fed to enjoy all the outdoor amenities offered by the Resort). Patterned rugs were spread everywhere, a luxury for the feet when stepping out of bed.

I stepped past the dressing room (coffee maker, refrigerator) into the roomy full bath and truly appreciated the sight of so many fluffy white towels. The generous supply of toiletries would please my wife, I knew ­ they were by Gilchrist & Soames of London ­ and because I had forgotten my own ­ the sight of the disposable razor and shaving cream was more than welcome. At the rear of the dressing room, a second half­screened door led to the outside deck where one could read or walk in the moonlight.

After unpacking, we returned to Reception to place our dinner orders and to take a few photographs. Our minds meandered between each enticing description and like children in a candy store we grudgingly gave in, selecting the sumptuous best. With taste buds titillating through the delectable possibilities of dinner we felt inspired to do some exploring through the spacious grounds of the Club.

There is a comfortable pool and pool bar at Green Turtle Club and this one had the added attraction of a view of White Sound beyond the harbour. September's Hurricane Floyd had extensively damaged a number of buildings around the resort property but, by December 1999, the Club not only resembled its former self, but also had undergone some improving face­lifts.

Anna and I went back to # 7 to refresh ourselves for the evening's pleasures. We had been encouraged by Meredith to join other guests in the spacious but cozy bar and lounge near the screened dining room. At the bar, Mixologists, Lavanda and Lewis (Louie, Louie) were kept busy preparing exotic pre­dinner drinks for the growing crowd. The legend on the wall read "revelry with a cause" and we were about to see why. This was the weekend just prior to Halloween and there was already an air of mystery and mischiefness exuding from the guests. Anna and I sat on a green cloth sofa with our beverages and studied the furnishings. The room has been decorated with a number of the themes of an English hunting lodge. A native stone wall at one end holds a metal fireplace, bordered on either side by old-fashioned muskets and bull horns. A bellows sits at one side and a set of fire tongs at the other. The walls of the lounge are adorned by actual Bahamian and American dollar bills, autographed by guests of the Club over the years. Here and there, Anna could find a Canadian dollar, a British pound or a French lire note. Chests hung on the walls bearing trophies and other paraphernalia dear to the owners of the Club.

I noticed that certain wall hangings and the coffee tables were hand carved with etchings of plough horses and signed with the artist's name, A S Devon ­ 1970. A guitar reclined against a wall, awaiting one of Estin Sawyer's return visits. The advent of a coven of witches, dressed in black lace and netted hats, was preceded by Tim Hoffman, one of the Club's versatile managers himself dressed in drag. He and his wife, Meredith (she, in the garb of a school girl, complete with backpack) invited us to partake of hors d'oeuvres ­ breaded shrimp, crisp pieces of succulent fish and conch fritters, both with rich sauces, that had been placed in one of the lounge's two anterooms.

We nibbled with restraint, not wanting to spoil our dinner later on and watched, with amusement, as, in their turn, a vamp (also in basic black) and the witches circled each other like benevolent birds of prey. The ladies, I later discovered, were a group of friends who were visiting from Kentucky, sans maris. Tim, balancing admirably in his high heels, summoned us by couples to dinner.

The dining room (which can easily seat 120­130 persons) was elegantly appointed with crystal, china and silverware. The white linen was crisp and starched, there were candles on the table, the wall sconces were intimately lit, orchids in varied hues were at attention in white individual vases and the French doors gave onto the wide decks that overlook the harbour. Tim, acting as wine steward and list in hand, took my order for a merlot and Rita, another pleasant member of staff, brought our first course. The sweet potato soup with dumplings was followed by a garden salad, whose vibrancy of colours bespoke freshness. Anna's entree was the salmon with lobster­mashed potatoes. The salmon was topped with a rich brown wine gravy and accompanied by an array of carrots and asparagus tips. Mine was the crab­stuffed grouper with the same vegetables (thank goodness).

Green Turtle Club's Executive Chef, Michael happened by (baby daughter, Olivia in arms) while we were giving this repast all the undivided attention that it deserved. He enquired at each table of how the guests were enjoying our choices and, without exception, we all pronounced the meals ­ excellent! The addition of a meat­based sauce to Anna's fish was unusual but delicious, the complimentary tastes of crab and lobster to the grouper and potatoes was indicative of the Chef's wonderful imagination. We tried to convey all of this to Michael, but, as his proud smile attested, he already knew. Michael Howell, a Canadian by birth, was one of those persons who was born to do what he does. Even as a boy at a time when such things were still a reason for jest, he decided to take Home Economics classes and was the first male student at his high school in Chester, Nova Scotia to do so. By his teens, he became interested in the theatre and followed that call for a time in England, Canada. While in Ontario in the 1990's, he met his future wife, Mary Harwell, a stage manager. The Howells began a series of relocations following Mary's career changes and wound up in Chicago, where Michael decided to return to his first love, cuisine, and after studying successfully at the Cooking & Hospitality Institute in that city, he graduated with honours in the early 1990's. Having worked in Chicago's Everest Room Restaurant, the Whitney Mansion (Detroit), Scandia (Newburyport, MA), Urban Grill & Catering (Toronto, CA) and Carol's Café (New York), Michael was seeking a challenge in an unusual locale when he was beckoned by GTC's ad on the Internet last year. Meanwhile, Mary, having become Mom to Burton (now 4 yrs. old ­ Olivia was born at the height of Hurricane Irene in 1999) and still at the zenith of her own fascinating career as Stage Manager for the stage hit, "Fosse", Mary decided to follow Michael for a time and they all came to The Bahamas.

Michael describes his food as "World cuisine with local flavour". He attempts to incorporate recipes with cooking techniques from around the world using local Bahamian flavours and ingredients. He enjoys the chance to use the varied seafood of the Abacos and underscores the service of these unique results with "theme nights." Hence at the Club, you might have an opportunity to experience Greek Night, Thai Night, Italian Night, A Taste of India or Spanish Night. Michael is in the process of developing a Green Turtle Club Cookbook.

The evening at Green Turtle Club passed by in a delightful haze and after indulging in the eloquence of a clear, starry and pest­free night, we retired to the tranquility of # 7 and a restful night near the water.

The next morning dawned on the glassy bright waters of the Harbour. We languidly prepared to go down for breakfast. This was the first day of daylight­savings time and the other guests trickled into that screened porch­like room we had been admiring since the day before. Our hostess, Deshawn Burrows of Fox Town, was a young lady with a friendly personable manner. She proudly described how this room had not really existed b.f. (before Floyd). Instead, it had been a kind of veranda and had been totally destroyed. Now, the room, while seemingly "opened" to the air, was screened from halfway off the tiled floor to the raised ceiling with such a fine mesh that only the most persistent and hungry mosquito could possibly get in. I chose Eggs Benedict from the menu, which arrived with a carafe of coffee and fresh fruit, while my ever-adventurous mate chose the Casuarina breakfast ­ an omelet of ham and cheese with V­8 juice and toasted Bahamian bread.

One of the guests was Denise Flowers of Shell Bahamas, Ltd. (Nassau) who, with a friend, presented everyone with complimentary All­Abaco Regatta 2000 t­shirts. The Regatta had been underway at Treasure Cay for two days, but due to the choppy waters had been confined to land activities rather that the anticipated boat races.

Further after­breakfast browsing revealed a washeteria and tuck shop on the premises of the Club, and Chef Michael's herb garden near the kitchens. The Club can make arrangements for fishing, scuba diving (Brendal's Dive Shop), boating, golf cart, scooter and bicycle rentals (D & P's), bonefishing on the marls (Ronnie & Jeff) and shopping/sightseeing in New Plymouth, the Cay's historical little settlement.

At one point during this interlude, we chatted with General Manager Lynn Johnson ­ a perky blonde native of the Cay, who has been with the Club since her teens. Lynn enjoys her job and has had to perform every kind of service from minor plumbing to bed­making. She assured us that all members of staff have been encouraged not to say, "that's not my job." We could confirm this refreshing attitude even now, as we had noticed the pervasive pleasantness that was evidence of a contented group of employees. One felt welcome wherever one went on the property ­ no one made you feel as if you were intruding or a nuisance. Lynn related the story of how the owners, Mr. Mrs. Alan Charlesworth were sailing in the 1960's through the Abacos when they became enchanted with the property now known as the Green Turtle Club. It had once been someone's boathouse and the Charlesworths realized the potential in such a haven.

Alan died in 1989 but his widow and daughter have taken the reins and have passed their vision of the Resort to their 30­odd employees, some of whom live on the grounds. At the southern end of the property are a collection of villas, some of which are still owned by the Club and some of which have been sold but are managed in the owners' absence. The guests of the Club are mostly from the United States, with some visitors coming from Germany, Canada, France and Italy. The Club enjoys 60% repeat business and are advertised over the Internet and by travel agencies. The Green Turtle Club will again oversee the next Billfish Tournament in May, 2001.

Reservations and information at the Green Turtle Club are easily available by telephoning 1-242-365-4271; faxing 1-242-365-4272, e­mailing at info@greenturtleclub.com or best of all coming to experience the Club on your own. It is definitely worth the trip.